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Autumn allure
We’re quite smitten with Alber Elbaz, the man behind French fashion house Lanvin. The Lanvin woman is effortlessly glamorous and undeniably chic–grace permeates her every step. So credit is due to the man who suits her day in and day out in luxurious, often draped, loveliness. For autumn, Elbaz has whipped up deliciously structured silhouettes, using jagged rocks of embellishments to remind us that though powerful and very much in control, his woman is still sensual and majestic.
The most notable characteristic of this collection was the exaggerated shoulders and sleeves, which encased the models like cocoons. Unlike the extreme peaks of autumn 09, this season’s wide arms projected a broader, more dominating figure—but perhaps the blunt cut ebony fringe and Cleopatra locks helped, too. Elbaz’s winter woman meant business, whether she was suited in a carefully draped blazer, or a one-shoulder frock with fitted panels. We sensed a subtle rebellious streak formulating in pleated black silk wrapped diagonally across the body, which was paired with studded belts and leather cuffs.
And then things got a little lovelier, more flavoured and a bit softer with the addition of super fine, supremely delicate brown lace. Rolling into gentle folds, web-like lace was tucked into high-waisted skirts and accessorised with intricate belts and multi-stranded feather necklaces. Petal coloured ostrich feathers piled into ruffles on a mini dress and sprouted out of a handbag. Transitioning back to a darker palette, Elbaz then introduced swaths of graphite and copper embellished with clusters of metallic jewels that patterned themselves into intricate designs. Styled with ankle boots that cut seductively down the arch of the foot, a delectable bag and a leather glove, Elbaz’s girls looked commanding yet inviting. And one thing’s for certain, Lanvin’s allure is sure to attract many followers this autumn.
Written by Dana Karlson
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Black, white and red
There’s something rather enchanting about bright red lips and a monochrome outfit – and from the moment we saw the first look of Givenchy’s autumn/winter ‘10 collection, we knew it would be a good show.
Givenchy’s creative director Riccardo Tisci said he was inspired by skiing, scuba-diving and the signature colours of German arts school Bauhaus. At first glance, it would be pretty much impossible to see these references, but look closer and one can see subtle snowflake patterns printed on tops, skirts with a utilitarian zip detail and the look-alike neoprene fabrics, all in a palette of red, black and white. However, it was far from luxe sportswear – the 49 looks couldn’t have been chicer.
The luxurious, menswear-inspired coats were some of the highlights of the show, as well as the risqué lace dresses and sheer tops.
As well as outerwear, Tisci focused mainly on evening dresses, creating decadently sensual numbers. There were exquisitely cut blazers and coats, velvet dresses and lace detailing. The label’s must-have lace-up ankle boots have new façades for winter, one of them being in the form of a bright red model, whilst embellished gloves and clutches added that extra sparkle.
The men’s looks had a more laid-back feel but looked just as striking. Elegant coats, crisp white jackets, straight black trousers and men’s skirts were the key male pieces.
Because of the dim lights on the runway and those haunting red lips, there was inevitably a Gothic mood throughout the show. But who can resist such a powerful colour trio?
Written by Vanessa Zaree
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Phoebe’s Way
It may only be her second big collection for Celine, but Phoebe Philo is causing a stir in the fashion world. It’s not surprising – by having to balance a successful career in fashion with her family life, Philo understands a modern-day woman’s needs. Celine’s Spring ‘10 collection was full of covetable pieces that make perfect wardrobe staples, and its Winter ‘10 collection has followed the same lines.
The show started off with with models walking down the runway in minimal, slightly military-looking navy pieces. No extra fuss needed – the coats and dresses were statement pieces, which will most likely be the sell-out garments of next season. Philo returned to Celine’s star piece for Spring: the leather skirt. Firstly, as a pencil version it was paired up with a sexy lace top, and then in a less structured, more tulip-like shape with an oversize white shirt. In fact, leather was one of the main fabrics of the show – there were skin-tight leather tops -sensual yet chic-, and an imposing long, black leather coat. But leather played a key part in the details: we saw it on sleeves and hemlines, the leather riding boots were a perfect complement to the clothes and the most charming touch was probably the big leather pockets on many of the items.
The palette of colours used was straight to the point: black, white, navy and earthy tones enhanced the clothes’ sophisticated feel. Trends that have been a catwalk constant for the last few seasons like lace, sheer and embellishments were included, and there was some knitwear as well in the form of chunky sweater dresses. But what stood out above all were the clean-cut separates and luxe coats with a timeless appeal.
There was a definite ‘Buy now, wear for ever’ philosophy behind the collection – pieces for women who know what they want. There’s nothing more powerful than a confident woman – and Phoebe knows just how to reflect that.
Written by Vanessa Zaree
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Academy Award winning style 2010
The 82nd annual Academy Awards dazzled Hollywood Sunday night, as screen sirens turned up the heat on the red carpet. Runway-ready looks reigned in a season that was dominated by couture ruffles. The evening was kicked off with familiar shouts of ‘Who are you wearing?,’ and of course, we were all ears. Here are a few of our favourite Oscar looks. Notable mention goes to Diane Kruger (always a favourite) who looked lovely in a tiered Chanel dress, Rachel McAdams who glowed in a pretty pastel gown by Elie Saab, and Miley Cyrus in Jenny Packham. Yes, we deliberated about even typing that last name, but the young singer/actress stepped up her style by toning down her dress selection (remember last year’s controversial overly embellished number?!). Packham’s champagne-coloured frock fitted Miley perfectly– truly a step in the right direction.
Cameron Diaz looked gorgoeus in Oscar de la Renta (right) during the show and after at the Vanity Fair party (left). We love how both looks featured metallic shimmer– and bold red lips didn’t hurt either.
Zoe Saldana was stunning in a Givenchy couture confection. The Avatar actress stole the show in a sparkly bodice atop waves of violet ruffles.
British beauty Carey Mulligan held her in a LBD by Prada. Mulligan was effortlessly chic as usual in this incredibly embellished frock.
Sandra Bullock, we have to hand it to her. Not generally known for her fashion sense, Bullock looked every bit the Academy Award-winning actress that she now is (thanks to The Blind Side) in a gilded Marchesa gown. Bravo!Written by Dana Karlson
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Future Odyssey
….Shall we proceed? A few more minutes, perhaps? Sure. Take all the time you need to soak up that gem. What a close-up. What a shoe. Part reptilian brogue, part plastic. If this brilliant piece of footwear makes sense to you or intrigues you, we have a feeling you’re going to enjoy Balenciaga’s projection for autumn.
The magic produced by designer Nicholas Ghesquiere is astounding. We spent days counting down until we able to sort through Ghesquiere’s infinite talent–four more days, three more days…–and this collection did not disappoint. Balenciaga benefits from having one of the most unique current perspectives at it’s helm, and autumn looks to be a lot more interesting with Ghesquiere in the ring.
Many designers have sourced inspiration from sixties style this season. Ghesquiere too headed back in time several decades, but he restored blocks of formica, plastic packaging and day-glow colours into an ultra modern display of fashion. With models walking among the solar system in perfectly constructed heels, skinny cropped trousers and super high hemlines, Ghesquiere’s line might not have been the most wear-able but we’d certainly say it’s the most interesting. Knitwear connotes something entirely different than what we saw in this collection, where the designer took soft fabric and created a stiff silhouette. Laser-perforated skirts resembled the most delicate lace, whilst the blend of powder blue and electric yellow, peach and sea green set against grey created a brighter vision of autumn.
Season after season, Ghesquiere seems to tune out the trends and turn on the fashion-faithful with brilliant innovations.
Written by Dana Karlson
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A designer cause
Every so often a movement is born, a sentiment that ignites a flame of passion, demanding action and eliciting a response. Women for Women International is just that crusade. Reaching out to females in conflict-ridden countries including Rwanda, Sudan, Afghanistan and Iraq to name a few, the charity aims to empower these victims of war and civil crises by helping them find the resources needed to create stability in their lives and communities. This month Women for Women has teamed up with Harper’s Bazaar and London’s favourite female designers to create an exclusive range of T-shirts in honour of International Woman’s Day on 8 March.
Monday marks the centennial celebration of the global event, and fetes in the UK commence mid-day with the Join Me On The Bridge initiative. Women across the world will unite on bridges on 8 March, symbolising a future built on peace, support and development. And while you’re at it, pick up a designer t-shirt by the likes of Nicole Farhi, Savannah Miller, Bella Freud or Alice Temperley made specially for the day sold on Net-A-Porter. Our pick is the “Goddess of War” slogan tee by Pam Hogg, or Betty Jackson’s gorgeous mask design. Proceeds will be donated to Women for Women International.
The festivities continue well into the evening at the Haunch of Venison gallery. Get glammed up in your finest for a soiree that features music, international dance troupes and an incredible auction. The charity will raffle off chances to win prizes that would otherwise not be up for purchase such as a fashion experience with Mrs. B herself Joan Burnstein during London Fashion Week in September, internships at M&C Saatchi and Harper’s Bazaar, tea at the House of Lords and even an opportunity to release a cheetah into the wild. You could also pick up a pair of Jimmy Choo’s and some brilliant jewels if you like. Tickets are £125, to purchase call Women for Women at 0207 922 7774 to book ahead. Tickets are also available at the door. For more information click here.
Founded by Zainab Salbi, a well-known author in the US who grew up imprisoned by her family’s position in Saddam Hussein’s inner circle, Women for Women connects sponsors to women around the world, fostering a nurturing relationship between females that engenders courage and confidence. So why the focus on women you ask? Well amidst sobering statistics highlighting the imbalance between women’s work efforts (they make up 66 percent of the work force and produce 50 percent of food yet they earn just 10 percent of the income and 1 percent of property), they also represent 70 percent of the world’s poor. Shocking and sad. Initiative and action is required. So whether you sport a shirt or gather at the bridge, supporting International Women’s Day feels like a step in the right direction.
Written by Dana Karlson
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Blast from the Past
We’re only just getting our heads around Giles Deacon’s Sixties chicks, but he’s not the only designer who did a bit of time-travelling this season. Looks like we’ll have to revise our list of movie rentals because Marco Zanini at Rochas mentioned late sixties film “Cactus Flower” as his main source of inspiration for Winter ‘10.
The beehive hair, smoky eyes, bee-stung lips… the models couldn’t have looked any more Brigitte Bardot-esque. But, first and foremost, it was the clothes that made us feel like we were looking at fashion photographs from the sixties. Cute A-line dresses, sweet granny-looking jumpers styled with tiny waist-belts and flared trousers looked straight out of an old Vogue issue. The coats and jackets, many of them with cropped sleeves, were beautifully structured; one of the star pieces was a cheetah-printed ponyskin coat. The soft colours used such as light blue, brown and yellow, made the collection all the more enjoyable. The modern elements were definitely there – golden prints, more luxurious than psychedelic, jazzed up garments and giant ruffles added edge to sleeves and hem lines. Towards the end, the frocks had a slightly tougher attitude than the pleasingly sweet looks that opened the show. More than a reinterpretation, the show was pretty much a straight-forward replica of this much-loved era.
That’s not to say we were not completely charmed by the collection – it would be pretty much impossible not to be. In a season that has marked the return of more wearable trends, it’s perfectly understandable that designers kept looking back at the decade that set a before and after in fashion history. Get your groove on, we say.
Written by Vanessa Zaree
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Just the note
After the first day of Paris Fashion Week, Dries seems to be the name on everyone’s lips. Capturing this season’s lust for all things practical and wear-able, Dries Van Noten has bottled up the ingredients–menswear tailoring, utilitarian styles, and unexpected flourishes–and achieved the right balance of casual and cool for autumn.
Veering away from indigenous-inspired designs, the Dutch designer chose only to insert prints where absolutely necessary to enhance the look. Several animal print scarves accessorised an olive coloured coat and an ikat blouse rather nicely, whilst abstract floral designs livened up the solid military hues. Though our favourite looks involved tapered trousers that were sealed with buttons up the calf.
The ingenuity of Van Noten’s collection is based on the premise that it is truly ready to wear. Many women probably already own wardrobe staples like those on display in Paris, and with the addition of a few key items (our first priority is a killer coat), autumn is all wrapped up. Sure, it may seem like the obvious approach to please shoppers, but then why has it taken so long to manifest? Why the fuss this season? We’d like to think designers are taking a broader approach to style rather than an in-one-season-out-the-next trend report. Whatever the cause, Dries Van Noten has hit a nerve for autumn, and the reaction couldn’t be better.
If you can’t wait until end of summer to get your hands on this line, visit LynkU to shop the current selection of Dries Van Noten.
Written by Dana Karlson
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You’ve got Mail
It’s time for the crème de la crème. We’re clicking away like mad looking through the latest collections and we’ve been pleasantly surprised by fashion insider’s label Rue du Mail.
Well, we think it’s time to share the secret. Although the label was founded in 2004 in a Parisian street named – you guessed it – Rue du Mail by French designer Martine Sitbon – who earned a top spot as the Creative Director at Chloé – it was officially launched in 2007. It’s been a slow yet steady rise for a brand that encapsulates a mix of Parisian chic and urban eclecticism.
While some designers seem to forget that it can get a bit cold during the winter, it was clear that Sitbon decided to make outerwear one of the strongest points of her collection. Military coats, updated and cut-out trenches were all presented in dark and tanned tones. Some of the jackets had an unashamed puffed style – who ever knew that puffers could look so chic? Sitbon played with tailoring and structure – much of the outerwear had an oversized, slightly menswear feel that was toned down with a belt.
What started off as a dark-coloured collection suddenly became inundated with striking metallic velvet dresses in a palette of bronze and silver. But it wasn’t just about cocktail dresses – there were soft, delicate pieces in off-lilac and cream, ruffled up and feminine but without losing their quirkiness. Amongst the display of coats, sleeveless cardis and dresses, there were many lust-worthy separates like satin cropped trousers and a variety of skirts, some in a draped style and others tulip-shaped.
It looks like Martine Sitbon has found a healthy balance between commercial appeal and creativity – we think it’s only a matter of time before her label becomes a hit. We’ve rounded up a few of our current favourite pieces – check out more Rue du Mail on LynkU.
Written by Vanessa Zaree
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Tights? Yes please
Maybe it’s because of “Gossip Girl”, or simply because they’d been left in fashion oblivion, but the truth is that tights have had a powerful revival in recent seasons. Considering it’s still chilly out there tights are still a good spring investment.
Tights come in every possible pattern and in every colour imaginable, so it really depends on how daring you want to be and the occasion. ASOS’ snake tights are definitely for the cheeky ones, whilst Dorothy Perkin’s bow tights are sweet and perfectly discreet. Hearts and tights make a good match and Topshop has created the perfect pair. For those of you who are looking for nature-inspired pieces, Topshop’s floral tights have a pretty feminine touch, and Celeste Stein’s butterfly tights are desperately romantic.
If you’re not afraid to make a statement, Stein’s harlequin tights will undoubtedly steal the show. Unless you’re a fan of clashing prints – Agyness Dean, anyone?- we recommend keeping the rest of your outfit simple.
If your a fifties and sixties girl at heart, all you need are tights with a retro feel–pairs with a sexy seam at the back or lace and polka dots.
Never underestimate the power of bright tights. Tights can play a key role when it comes to colour blocking, especially when you’re dressed in monochromatic hues contrasting legs will make a striking outfit. If you don’t want to draw too much attention to yourself – you are likely to turn a few heads if you’re wearing bright coloured tights – then stick to black clothes, it makes just as much of a good impact.
We say don’t knock it ’till you’ve tried it, so why not give funky tights a go. But don’t worry – you can always go back to black opaque tights. A familiar favourite.
Shop for tights on LynkU.
Written by Vanessa Zaree
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