Archive for the ‘Fresh Faces’ Category
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Ivy h.
I first met Hawaiian-raised designer Ivy Higa several years ago in Manhattan, and have been a faithful follower ever since. Though it’s been my little secret for some time, the cats officially out of the bag with her Spring/Summer 2010 presentation at New York Fashion Week this past September. Ivy is based in New York, where she meticulously designs each collection, drawing inspiration from the far corners of the globe. Ivy studied at the prestigious Parsons School for Design in New York, and then trained at Lafayette 148 New York under Edward Wilkerson before starting her own line right out of the her East Village flat. To watch her sketch and hear her discuss influences, moods and materials, there is no doubt that fashion is a labour of love for the designer.
Spring 2010 focuses on ‘wearable art,’ fluid separates that convert from day to evening with a cuffed trouser or rolled sleeve. As usual there is an emphasis on intricate detailing specifically reverse structure, ensuring that your exit is just as enthralling as your entrance. Ivy was inspired by Japanese Akari lamps, translating the delicate lanterns into pale nude hues in billowing silhouettes.
We won’t disclose the details of her Autumn/Winter 2010 collection just yet, as we want some photos to support our claims, but from what we’ve seen it is quite the fashion journey. Stay tuned…
For more information on Ivy h., visit the designer’s web site www.ivyh.net.
We will be twisting in the mirror to take in this back-detailing.
We cannot which we like more: the stark white party number on the left, or the silky pearl-peach combo on the right.
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Irwin & Jordan
Though our flare for femininity–anything super luxe, lacey, silk, draped, and if all possible pink– is hardly a secret, we have to admit Irwin & Jordan by designer Zoe Jordan has caught our eye and piqued our fashion interest. Zoe is the daughter of Formula 1 team boss, Eddie Jordan, and has set out to create a collection that weaves the artistry and masculine tailoring of Saville Row with sensual urban sophistication. Described as a “boy’s best friend and girl’s confidante,” Irwin & Jordan explore androgynous style in the line’s Spring/Summer 2010 collection.
Utilising sumptuous silk and luxurious fabrications, Irwin & Jordan’s masculine silhouettes begin to take shape. Drop waist dresses, super slouchy shorts and high-waisted trousers exude effortless style, whilst sequined and lace tops (ah ha! we couldn’t bury our girly tendencies for long) make a statement. Learn more about Irwin & Jordan here.
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Waiting to be Kissed
It is hard to bounce back after the holidays. We’re all there surfing around the post- holiday doldrums. Bleak sky and a thick layer of snow to boot. And then just as we’re wondering how to salvage the day, we receive a dose of fashion fantasy in the form of Rita Saardi’s Waiting to be Kissed collection, and inspiration is in the air.
Like her previous collections–All Wrapped in Black, Between Heaven & Earth, Private Garden and Art of Love–Waiting to be Kissed sounds like an intriguing foreign film set amongst an Impressionist landscape of water lilies and rolling hills. Saardi avoids labeling any of her collections by season, but Waiting to be Kissed certainly fits alongside this spring’s palette of nude and black, with swirls of diaphanous fabric, and lingerie as outerwear. We absolutely adore the rosettes sprinkled across bodices and decorating the neckline. Like a frog waiting to be kissed by a princess, Rita was fueled by her own desire for professional success.
Saardi’s story is inspiring to say the least. She was born in Lebanon, raised in Sweden, trained in France, all of which added diverse flavours to draw upon. The Paris-based designer still identifies closely with her Lebanese roots, and attributes her early artistic passion to her first ten years living in turmoil. Saardi’s family eventually sought refuge in Stockholm, where the aspiring artist lived before setting off for France where she was immersed in the culture of style and design. “I spent a lot of money on a fashion school for nothing, but i learned a lot from the city of Paris for free,” Saardi says.
Here in the office we are anxiously awaiting Saardi’s next turn.
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Radiating style
We first came across Iris Van Herpen several months ago during press season fever, and spent a bit too much time weaving our fingers through the contoured waves of fabric (we may or may not have been holding up the walk-through with said fascination). Though Van Herpen has showed six collections already, this September was her first season in London, where she made quite an impact. The Dutch designer was hand-picked by Harrods.com as an intriguing new talent to watch as part of its Harrods Launches project. We’re certain Van Herpen’s conceptual body-tracing collection made this an easy choice.
Iris Van Herpen is clearly a designer with her sight set on the future. Her latest foray explores the world of science, and toys with the ability to control waves of radiation surrounding the body. Iris interprets these attracting and repelling forces in three-dimensional spirals of fabric, which trace along the human form. This line gives a whole new meaning to the term body-conscious.
Van Herpen’s use of leather waves to add texture brings the designs to life. Every detail is inspired by movement and energy, which makes understanding the full breadth of the collection that much more startling. From the notion that we will be able to see radiation waves in the future, Iris has developed a line that hope answers a big What If? Though we’re not sure if it will ever be possible, we hope that if it is it looks like Iris Van Herpen’s collection.
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Sequins reworked
It’s no secret that sequins are having a moment this winter, creating sartorial sparkle for the holidays. But if seasonal gold and silver aren’t exactly your flavor, take a peep at Manjit Deu’s nautical-inspired line for spring 2010. It feels a bit strange to even label these bespoke rectangular flecks as sequins. There’s nothing fast-fashion here, no sequins splashed aimlessly across a sheath of jersey. Deu’s iridescent red, white and blue “flecks” (we’re running with it), were carefully hand-embellished onto sumptuous fabrics in Mumbai. The English-born Indian designer is quickly becoming acclaimed for his detailed and dedicated brand of opulent luxury.
Paloma Faith and Little Boots are already fans of the designer, and now Harrods.com has selected Manjit, along with Iris van Herpen (more to come on him later we promise), to open its Harrods Launches showcase, which spotlights new designers each season. Deu was a natural choice, especially after winning the coveted Collection of the Year award from the London College of Fashion in 2009.
We’re about ready to hit the decks and man the starboard side in this collection just as soon as the temperature picks up a bit. What may appear a tad preppy, goes glam with these cascading red and blue translucent chips. In the detail shot below, you can see how these flecks almost create an ombre effect, starting as deep sea blue at the shoulder and spreading out into a cerulean hue. The glistening rectangles look like thin sheets of glass sprinkled down the front of the dress. We’re officially on-board, and looking forward to watching Deu develop.
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Exquisite Equilibrium
These are the jewellery stylings of Imogen Belfield, who we first came across through Not Just A Label’s pop-up shop at Beach Blanket Babylon. We were covering Lara Stone’s hand-picked goodies when we stumbled upon Imogen’s intriguing autumn/winter 09 collection “The Unshores”– a mix of jagged metals and porcelain. For her spring/summer offering “Equilibrium” Imogen explores the realms of space in bronze and gold. It seems as if the designer captured the Milky Way in molten metal. The Asteroid ring above is phenomenal with bubbling gas trapped in gold-plated bronze (£300). Imogen’s line is carried at Kabiri, and we cannot wait to get our hands on these starry supernovas.
Jewellery lovers perusing Miss Belfield’s past and present wares. We love the originality of this line, with several pieces offered as one-offs.
The Bark ring is bronze-plated with 22 carat Gold fused with porcelain. Imogen reworks her organic inspiration in subtle details (see the fine ticks along the ring’s shiny surface) and the result is this stunning one-of-kind ring (specific variations can be ordered) £285.
We love this one-off Equinox necklace, which blends gold and silver bits of galaxy. Belfield’s translation looks like star clusters plucked straight from space.
Thought charm bracelets were for your mum’s generation? Think again. Imogen’s nuggets of meteors are modern and fresh.
The Plasma ring is a blend of silky and erupting gold-plated bronze. We think everyone’s going to have their eyes on Imogen’s stellar collection once it hits stores! -
Not Just A Label boutique (round 2)
I visited Not Just A Label’s first ever pop-up boutique at Beach Blanket Babylon Friday night after work. This was the perfect time to stop by as it wasn’t too crowded yet and I was able to snap away to my heart’s desire. The NJAL staff was very helpful and walked me through the various designers, though I was definitely moving in slow-mo feeling all the fabric as I went (I’m sure they loved that!).
Lara Stone’s personal collection was gorgeous as expected from the pictures leading up to the event. I especially liked Emma Slack’s spinal dress and Imogen Belfield’s amazing jewellery. Despite Ms. Stone’s dark colour palette, I still managed to find some colourful cocktail dresses (love)!
First of all, BBB is stunning– where else would 80s-inspired fluro head bands look so pretty draped on an antique French candleholder? There had to be an atmosphere shot– the ambiance showcased the new designer talent perfectly.
Awash of colour! Not Just A Label featured some mighty pretty frocks that were not just black. I loved the tribal-esque print on this strapless cocktail dress. The embroidery on several other tops and tunics (see top photo) created some very interesting textures as well.
So Lara’s spine dress by Gemma Slack also had a cropped leather jacket counterpart at the Not Just A Label boutique. The exposed spine, shall we say, is a bodily translation of exposed zippers, which are fastening up dresses in every store! I love Slack’s interpretation, as the backbones remind me of the skeletal dinosaurs in museums–a very fashion-forward dinosaur, naturally. The jacket epitomizes this season’s obsession with peaked shoulders and studding, but in a way that feels organic to the design not just included for the sake of style forecasts.
Imogen Belfield’s rings formed a collection of little craters of porcelain and gold,angular stone jutting out into multi-faceted shapes. Belfield’s nature-inspired designs are certainly one-of-a-kind wonders that look as though the wearer has uncovered a jewel in the rough.
Auschka Hoevener’s padded waistcoat was another personal favourite. This piece from Ms. Stone’s collection looks futuristic–and adds a bit of protection–with a medieval twist. The padding weaves around back as well, creating a distinct silhouette. I took roughly 103 photos of this vest, because it is so intricate and developed. -
Not Just A Label pop-up boutique
It’s official, friends: Not Just A Label, the international aggregate of bright young designers, is holding it’s first ever pop-up shop this Friday and Saturday. If you weren’t already rearranging your schedule, Lara Stone’s personally selected collection will be available alongside the works of other innovative designers. Stone’s collection sold out (who didn’t see that coming?), but you can shop these looks and more this weekend at Beach Blanket Babylon (we’ll get to that later). Of course, the best part of all of this is that the Not Just A Label pop-up boutique benefits the new faces behind fashion, helping the young generation garner exposure across the world. It’s a deed well-done by the industry for the industry.
Each month, NJAL chooses a new celebrity curator, past personalities included Diane Pernet (of A Shaded View) and Amanda Lepore, and Stone’s recent appointment marked the continuation of my girl-crush on the Dutch model. Apparently, Stone’s first selection for Not Just A Label’s was initially all black, so the model went back and pulled out some fiery orange to add to her range. All of the looks are avant-garde, and amazing. I cannot wait to shop, shop, shop. Shopping NJAL pretty much guarantees you’re buying one-offs that look runway-ready, and now you can try the clothes on before buying (biggest gripe with online shopping). And you can make a night of it, since the shopping event is going to be held at BBB, the little fashion gem of Notting Hill, and lasts until 11 p.m. on Friday night. Champers in hand and some fashion? Ideal evening. Below are some of Miss Stone’s picks:
SCHIPPERARQUES Puffed Sleeve Short Vest £375, fashion-forward and sophisticated for a younger crowd–a perfect style combination. SEELENKLEID Mini Dress £650, I love the pleating/dripping black goo at the neckline and the overall flowy shape of the frock. SU Nuno Felted Dress £930, this was part of the designer’s attempt to “slow down” the constant churning of fast-fashion. The wool- chiffon dress is in inspiring and lovely.
AOI KOTSUHIROI 2 Hearts ring with vanadinite crystals, silk thread, and Japanese lacquer. This is so intricate and just plain beautiful, and assures me that the Not Just A Label pop-up boutique will be packed with artfully worked fashion, down to the last accessory.
STUDY_NY nylon and metal zipper cuff bracelets £35. I would add this to any outfit. It’s right on-trend for the autumn wave of Rock Chic, but without being studded (I own way too many sharp accessories at this point). -
Let them eat Cake
I came across the be-a-utiful work of Marit Fujiwara while prowling the blogosphere, and though she has been covered by everyone under the sun ( first saw her mentioned on Susie naturally) , her designs are just amazing and her talent too immense not to comment. This gem is aptly titled ‘Cake,’ and really, what could be better than combining my absolute favourite dessert (cake every day of the week? Please) with fashion? And so I give to you these inspired works by Marit, a textile designer who recently graduated from the Chelsea College of Art and Design. Here’s a little more bio to satistfy your interest: Marit was born in Norway and raised in Brazil before moving to London at 19. She draws inspiration from her international experiences and bases her work chiefly on drawings and illustrations.
Certainly reminiscent of my fashion-passion, Rodarte, Marit Fujiwara’s ability to play and work fabric into delicate folds and waves is astonishing. Similar to the Mulleavy sisters, who construct ornate 3-d curls of fabric, Marit is a sartorial dream. Her creations are innovative and incredibly interesting (I could possibly spend hours dissecting this endless textile sea). If she were a 19th century Impressionist, she would surely be Van Gogh, translating Cake and the like into swirls of Starry Night on canvas. If this is a glimpse into the future of young designers, I can hardly wait.
A close-up look at rose and coral snaking around the gray and rouge fabric.
Etheral and innovative, ‘Skeleton’ is a lacy frame with chiffon over embroidered shell pseudo-leggings.
Take a closer look into the fashion anatomy of the fabric artfully weaving multi-coloured thread and fabric through the ’skeletal’ system.
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