Phoebe’s Way

Written by Vanessa Zaree
08.03.2010

It may only be her second big collection for Celine, but Phoebe Philo is causing a stir in the fashion world. It’s not surprising – by having to balance a successful career in fashion with her family life, Philo understands a modern-day woman’s needs. Celine’s Spring ‘10 collection was full of covetable pieces that make perfect wardrobe staples, and its Winter ‘10 collection has followed the same lines.

The show started off with models walking down the runway in minimal, slightly military-looking navy pieces. No extra fuss needed – the coats and dresses were statement pieces, which will most likely be the sell-out garments of next season. Philo returned to Celine’s star piece for Spring: the leather skirt. Firstly, as a pencil version it was paired up with a sexy lace top, and then in a less structured, more tulip-like shape with an oversize white shirt. In fact, leather was one of the main fabrics of the show – there were skin-tight leather tops -sensual yet chic-, and an imposing long, black leather coat. But leather played a key part in the details: we saw it on sleeves and hemlines, the leather riding boots were a perfect complement to the clothes and the most charming touch was probably the big leather pockets on many of the items.

The palette of colours used was straight to the point: black, white, navy and earthy tones enhanced the clothes’ sophisticated feel. Trends that have been a catwalk constant for the last few seasons like lace, sheer and embellishments were included, and there was some knitwear as well in the form of chunky sweater dresses. But what stood out above all were the clean-cut separates and luxe coats with a timeless appeal.

There was a definite ‘Buy now, wear for ever’ philosophy behind the collection – pieces for women who know what they want. There’s nothing more powerful than a confident woman – and Phoebe knows just how to reflect that.