Archive for February, 2010
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A case of the blues
From high street fashion to the the runways of D&G, Ann Sofie Back, and Twenty8Twelve, we are seeing denim shirts and jackets everywhere, and dreaming up endless ways to wear them.
Some designers practice ‘the more the merrier’ mentality when it comes to denim. Hannah MacGibbon featured several all denim looks in Chloe’s spring/summer 2010 show. The key to pulling off this overly blue look is variety; if you are going to do all denim you don’t want to look like the fabric swallowed you whole. Try different colours and textures: if you want your jacket to be a light wash denim button-up, pair it with a medium toned trouser with extra distressing.
Not daring enough for all denim? Try jackets and button-ups with neutral trousers in cream linen for spring, just pair with a killer gladiator heel and you’re set.
Some pieces just wow the crowd like Lanvin’s jacket with chunky bead trim or Alexander Wang’s punky denim and jersey jacket. But for a more simple jacket a brooch can add personal flair. Scarves and necklaces may get too bulky depending on the collar, but we love these little gems to adorn the lapel of any denim piece adding a rock chic, vintage or super girlie touch.
So be it a bold blue jeans outfit or an accent to your favourite spring pieces– the denim jacket is back again. Shop LynkU for these looks and more.
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Jonathan Saunders keeps it modern
Jonathan Saunders said that the inspiration for his autumn/winter 2010 collection came from a girl he knew when he was in art school—what a lucky muse. And whilst we may have liked to have seen a few more cocktail dresses for a big night out, Sanders kept us satiated with his refreshing day wear.
Staying with the sports luxe trend, this collection was modern and clean. Dresses featured drop waists yet remained feminine with low necklines and piping along the bust. Skirts and t-shirts were textured with raw tassels adding movement to each piece. Keeping the presentation clean and modern, Saunders used blue, red, silver and green to colour the runway. Patterned cut-outs on skirts and a reoccurring digital rose print decorated the line.
Saunders kept with the underwear-as-outerwear trend, and featured bras on the outside of dresses. Several tops, including a sheer red t-shirt and a cut-out vest showed undergarments in a less obvious manner than we saw in the spring/summer collections.
But this show did not rely only on day wear, outerwear was a major factor. Parkas were ever popular in grey and cream and were dressed with plenty of drawstrings and black patten leather trim. And the piece that everyone is buzzing about? A menswear jacket in black with a bold ring of silver around the hips. Come to think of it, we see most of Saunders’ sporty pieces being big hits this autumn.
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Roksanda Ilincic does day wear
It was disco meets classic elegance for Roksanda Ilincic’s autumn/winter ‘10 runway show. With a purple carpeted runway, fresh scattered rose petals and disco music beating in the background the collection showcased new textures, raw hemlines and voluminous sleeves. The twist? Known for her elegant evening gowns, the designer introduced day wear reminiscent of the silver screen styles of the 1940’s.
Embellishments were a key element in this collection, Ilincic adorned silk dresses, pencil skirts and suiting with oversized bronzed beads woven into a chequered design, edgy flowers in matte metallic tones and cascading sequins hugging the curves of skirts and dresses.
Evening wear was everything we have come to expect of Ilincic, and more. Key pieces included a larger-than-life rose coloured satin draped cape neck frock complete with billowing arms, which made quite a statement. Ilincic was also keen on satin and silk one-shouldered numbers this season, both in full length gowns and shorter cocktail dresses.
Outerwear was cosy and glamorous. Jackets included fox fur sleeves and collars against textured angora. Styles ranged from cropped and shrugged furs to long wool overcoats and Ilincic added a feminine touch by cincing outerwear at the waist with pencil thin belts.
Along with these glam looks, Ilincic introduced daywear into her repertoire. Models graced the catwalk in flannel trousers with silk detailing on the back mirrored by matching flannel dresses adorned with more metallic embellishments.
So, ladies, it’s time to crimp your hair, pull out your disco vinyls and play dress up in Roksanda Ilincic’s autumn/winter collection, except this time you can wear it out in daytime too.
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Prada’s Classics
There seems to be a trend sweeping through the four fashion capitals this month that’s less about colours and hemlines and more about a mood. There has been a noticeable shift toward wearability. Will women wear this? How will this translate in day-to-day life? And it’s about time. We’ll admit to being blown away by outrageous concept collections and outlandish designs as much as the next blogger. Sure, because fashion is fantasy–it’s good to just soak up the creative process behind a line. But when it comes to clothes that will actually make it out of the wardrobe and into every day life, well, the pickings slim. Like Marc Jacobs earlier this season in New York, Miuccia Prada has turned away from creating something new just for the sake of it. Prada’s autumn offering looked back to the nineties, which suddenly feels oh-so-far away, reworking signature pieces for today’s fashion-faithful.
From the shoes up, Prada’s line was meticulously styled and painstakingly tailored. Unlike many designers who give all their girls variations of the same footwear, Miuccia made sure each look was outfitted with heeled sandals or square-toe courts to match accordingly (Prada’s extensive shoe collection might add a slight advantage here). For winter, it’s all about the coat that hits just above the knee. Pronounced collars were cushioned, glossed or double-layered for impact, whilst large round buttons popped as one of our favourite details. Appropriately, all outerwear and dresses were accompanied by ribbed tights, some with frills sliding down the models’ shins.
As always, the presence of prints was definitely a strong point at Prada, coming in either amber and ochre or navy and grey. The ruffled decolletage was a nice touch, adding a sweet femininity to the line. Buttery leather coats and skirts looks luxurious, whilst we adored the nubby wool knitwear styled with super skinny belts at the waist. And here’s the thing about super skinny: Prada employed Doutzen Kroes, Miranda Kerr and Lara Stone to help display her wares–all successful models who rarely find a place on the runway along size 0 frames. That debate is for another time, another story, but it was noticeable and nice to see some curvier (albeit still thin) figures strolling down the runway, reminiscent of the days of Cindy and co.
Prada’s influence reaches across the spectrum of fashion, and let’s hope more designers take note this season, giving us a warmer, more adequate approach to autumn.
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Stripes vs. Polka dots
With the avalanche of fashion shows the last two weeks, we’re finding it hard to think of anything other than what we’ll be loving in a few months time. However, we thought it would be good to come back to the present and take a look at what we want right now.
One of our main Spring dilemmas is being spoilt for choice on LynkU when it comes to two classic patterns: should we go for stripes or polka dots? When thinking of stripes the first thing that pops into our heads is the Breton look: so chic, so Coco. There’s something about a striped top that simply works – there are plenty of muses to this ongoing trend, from Chanel’s founder probably being a pioneer to sixties It Girl Jane Birkin making it effortlessly sexy. But stripes come in all shapes and sizes – and they look great on scarves and shoes. So we think it’s best to give all these charming varieties a go.
Polka dots also have envious fashion credentials. With a strong retro feel, girls with a love for all things pin-up related should love them. Marilyn Monroe and Bettie Page are the ladies to mention when it comes to polka dot muses – no one better represents fifties kitsch. Red and white is undeniably the ultimate polka dot combo, but we’re also fans of black and white – and naturally we’re always open to suggestions. If you’re unconvinced by polka dots on clothes, we think mugs might just be your cup of tea.
Still can’t decide if you’re more inclined towards the elegance of stripes or the fun of polka dots? We feel liking both is the best answer – find your favourite pieces on LynkU.
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Pretty in Preen
The genius that is Preen has done it again. We know we’re a little behind the times –there was a lot of London to prepare for and attend to–but Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi’s autumn/winter show in New York stopped our stilettos in their tracks. Forging down a path less-followed this season, Thornton and Bregazzi don’t do one-note they do various expeditions following new routes. Don’t get us wrong, the line is sharply focused, but like avenues of a city weaving out from the centre to serve the common good, Preen’s take on winter follows different paths but is unified by distinguishing threads.
First thing’s first the dresses were outstanding as ever. Pulled and and ravaged rose-printed silk hung suggestively from balconet bras, shielded by tiny turtleneck shrugs. Black chiffon draped over nude swaths of fabric paid tribute to spring’s sensual trend. However, it was the tailored menswear-inspired trousers and sharp jackets that cut the most memorable figures. Worn over a printed cami or criss-crossing dress, or belted at the waist with a straight or asymmetric hem, each piece of suiting elevated Preen’s style status from a line that does cute dresses to a reputable intriguing collection. Neat white and beige looks filtered out to close the show, particularly highlighting the duo’s minimal aesthetic. Crisp and carefully cut, a collection worth remembering.
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The Art of Mary Katrantzou
Art is always a reliable field for a designer to look to for inspiration. One could argue that Greek designer Mary Katrantzou uses her designs as blank canvases to display the most incredible imagery, crafting each piece into a work of art in their own right. But just one look at practically any of the garments from her autumn/winter ‘10 collection and it’s clear that Katrantzou must have had the Baroque and Rococo art movements in mind.
The show was like a visit to an exhibition on French painting from the 18th century – and it was anything but a drag. The first dress had imagery of pearls and luxurious fabrics, and could easily sum up the whole collection. For as well as her usual sharp 3D imagery of jewels, it was all about silks, war medals and pearl necklaces, reminiscent of Marie Antoinette. We took a double-take at some actual necklaces to be sure it was not another visual trick.
There were also other significant elements in the collection. Katrantzou added frilly bits here and there, lace sleeves and luscious ruffles, seen as a side tail and as sleeves – details which fit in very well with the whole 18th century concept.
Such is her gift for graphic prints that it almost feels like it was Katrantzou herself who invented the Trompe-l’œil technique. It was a strong collection, and not solely because of the images: the interesting cut of the pieces and the softness of the materials used were important factors that determined the overall look of the clothes. It was also a bit repetitive perhaps, but not boring. Each look was a visual feast, after all.
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The nature of Erdem
Considering ‘Out with the old, in with the new’ is the motto of many a fashionista, it’s not surprising that designers can feel the pressure to reinvent themselves season after season. Erdem Moragliou hasn’t been on the fashion radar for long, and even if his eponymous label is inevitably linked to flower prints, there is always an unexpected twist up this designer’s sleeve.
Erdem’s autumn/winter ‘10 collection, full of his signature bell shaped dresses, was more subdued than his previous collection. The earthy tones like ochre and steel contributed to an overall sombre mood. Although florals and nature have been a constant in Moragliou’s work, the reference was full on this season – Erdem mentioned he’d watched seventies mystery film “Picnic at Hanging Rock” as well as his sister’s documentary films on natural history.
The show started off with a model in a chocolate brown cape with small prints of delicate butterfly wings. That, along with a black cushioned coat and two military coats, was the only form of outerwear in the show. The rest of the looks displayed were his usual cocktail dresses and separates. The prints were spectacular – but not in a look-at-me way. The subtlety of the colours used and the abstract feel of the prints were the perfect ingredients for the pretty but edgy pieces. There were also ruffled skirts and tops, lace numbers and beautifully textured pieces – but it was the dresses with Swallows in flight that could easily be considered small works of art.
To classify Erdem designs as girlie would be unfair. There is an edge to these pieces that make them stray away from the conventional. And although it could seem that his work is repetitive, we feel the designer has found the perfect balance between pushing boundaries and creating a strong identity.
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Schwab’s heritage collection
Perhaps Halston’s Heritage line, fronted by a Ms. Sarah Jessica Parker, has got Marios Schwab reminiscing. The London-based designer dug deep into his early Austrian roots to produce a focused collection of tailored dresses (dirndl-inspired for sure), crisp collarless blouses, miniature origami hem detailing and deeply scooped necklines.
Schwab’s winter offering was more reserved than his past tendency toward tiny, glittery cocktail frocks. Instead of the ‘wow’ factor, this line had IT– an undeniable change, newness…growth. Comparing last autumn’s collection to this season, the development was palpable. From the cherry red mini with crystal embellished bling that Cheryl Cole donned on the X Factor, to this year’s long sleeves, strict tailoring and rich neutral-and-jewel tone palette, the tide has turned.
A sweetly feminine undercurrent rippled throughout the entire collection, softening structured silhouettes with demure details. Cut-out bibs and lace-up corset bodices took a note from the Old World. Carved wool boleros sat atop prim jersey dresses, whilst intricate high-waisted skirts looked as though they had just been pulled off the loom. Schwab has sifted through his resevoir of memories to create a thoughtful, relevant line true to his aesthetic but forging ahead determinedly.
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Isabel Marant mania
Isabel Marant’s spring 10 stock has just arrived at Net-A-Porter, and it is sure to fly out in no time. Who are the editors and purveyors of all things runway wearing when it comes to fashion month? You guessed it–Marant’s brand of relaxed Parisian chic has been the go-to uniform of choice for years. You’d be hard-pressed to find a front row bare of Isabel Marant’s slouchy trousers, effortlessly cool frocks and don’t forget suede boot or two.
For spring, Marant presented little Lurex dresses and ruffled skirts, draped shiny trousers, tailored blazers and suede footwear slung with tassels and chains. All items designed to instantly refresh the wardrobe for long warm days and even longer nights. We love Marant’s bohemian-luxe stylings, and would gladly–and loyally–wear any one of her designs out with the girls, on a date or whilst sipping cappucino outside of a cafe. Hers are the pieces you can make your own, adapt to fit your mood, your style, or simply update your look.
Don’t delay, as Net-A-Porter’s selection will certainly go quick!
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