End of an era: Christian Lacroix

Written by Dana Karlson
03.12.2009

By style standards the girls above look glorious in fashion’s favourite colour.  Intricate embellishment, delicate drape, spectacular flounce and a perfect fit–the ingredients of a successful runway performance.  But these are models in mourning.  And this is the catwalk from Christian Lacroix’s last runway endeavour for autumn/winter 2009, where only the catwalkers were paid a meager sum and the clothes were the creation of a supportive team who worked for free.  Lacroix’s future looked bleak in March, and this week confirmed the worst.

The Paris bankrupcy court approved a plan that leaves Lacroix’s couture house a shell of it’s former self.  Whilst the company was not liquidated,  100 employees were cut, with only 11 staff remaining to tend to licensing agreements for perfume and accessories. ‘Tis a sad day for fashion.

Lacroix was the first couture house to launch in 25 years when he opened his doors in Paris in 1987.  He was credited with restoring popular interest in couture.   This wasn’t fashion for the minimalist by any stretch.  Lacroix painted in the rich colours of Provence and the Mediterranean, and crafted opulent costumes of style.  This is what dreams of fashion and runways are made up of when you’re a little girl.

The exuberant swirls of silk, flouncy crinoline skirts and vibrant colour palettes never ceased to please, but did they sell?  Sadly, not enough.  This is the age old predicament of couture: creativity versus business acumen.  Couture is the stuff runway confections are made of– daring designs we love to marvel at–eyes wide, bent forward trying to take in everything at once.  However, the price tag of something carefully constructed by hand is several digits longer than you’re average purchase.

We’re hoping (fingers crossed here) that there’s some fashion magic at play, which will restore Lacroix to his former status as the head of a couture house, but until that time we give you a tribute in couture.