Ioannis Dimitrousis’ Naughtica collection and beyond

Written by Dana Karlson
26.10.2009

I just received these images from Ioannis Dimitrousis’ Naughtica collection for S/S 2010, and I’m intrigued. Remember that Sex & the City ‘Fleet Week’ episode, with all of the sailors swarming midtown Manhattan joined by a throng of excited girls? (Carrie realises she doesn’t really belong amongst rowdy 20-somethings any more… I’m heading down memory lane with the box set and a Cosmo in hand). Well this is the fashion equivalent of Fleet Week/ Paul Cadmus’ paintings depicting the same scene. Guess which one inspired the designer. Cadmus’ version of sailors flocked by floozies translates into Ioannis Dimitrousis’ Naughtica collection seamlessly in splashy blue plaids and understated ivory. Though this is my first introduction to Dimitrousis, I rifled through pics of autumn 09 after finishing with spring, and am anxiously awaiting to see how this line develops.

The designer and his mum (I love that!), have returned for spring with smartly tailored jackets and floor-length gowns, enhancing designer’s signature silk crochet. I like how paillettes are woven throughout the yarn in Ioannis Dimitrousis’ Naughtica collection, it’s pure craft luxe. There must have been something in the air for spring, as we saw embroidery, tassels and patchwork cropping up all across spring runways. This home-spun flavour certainly adds a one-of-a-kind feel, like you picked the best bits from grandma’s wardrobe, strategically tugged the yarn across your body, while working in some subtle beading when necessary. If only it were that easy. Thank you Ioannis and the like (I’m talking Mark Fast here, London’s master of crochet) for translating this in a way that makes sense and looks fantastic.

Beyond the loom, Ioannis Dimitrousis’ Naughtica collection featured silk separates and a dose of plaid for him and her. Plaid has to be just right for my eye (I’m not sure exactly how to describe this, but I know that more than six colours = a mess), and I am definitely keen on Ioannis’ deep sea blue cut with crimson. Tying back into his marine theme, the designer interjects dabs of ocean blue into his white and black palette.

I’m throwing in some autumn 09 images so it is pretty obvious from where spring has developed.  Focusing on yarn and chain mail for autumn, I have a clearer idea of where Ioannis Dimitrousis is headed with his autumn collection.  In the photo below, Dimitrousis cuts shapes with fabric and colour block for autumn.  This collection has a decidedly more sophisticated feel to it.  Despite the gaps of material, these crocheted minis would be fantastic for a night out as the weather gets cooler.  Don’t shrug off your knits for day-wear just yet, Dimitrousis is certainly doing his part to advance yarn in the fashion hierarchy.