Graduated design

Written by Dana Karlson
23.09.2009

Christopher Kane’s much anticipated runway show at London Fashion Week displayed the Scottish designer’s acute ability to develop his vision into a cohesive collection.  Packed with gingham check, floaty chiffon and luxurious cashmere, Kane’s line transitioned effortlessly.

The show opened with a tailored vest over a hazelnut-coloured checked dress with slits creeping up the leg, and it’s here the Central Saint Martins alum establishes the tone: one part school girl sweet mixed with a rebellious edge.  Kane relentlessly pushes the boundary between innocence and subtle seduction, with clever thigh-high slits and exposed balconets verging on disturbing.

He progresses from menswear-inspired pieces to structured separates to chiffon babydoll dresses flawlessly, alternating between pale blue, petal pink and sunny yellow.  Weaving gingham throughout the collection, Kane graduates from checks to floral embroidery seemlessly.

I absolutely love how Kane builds a collection, adding only necessary pieces to enhance the completed line.  The gingham feels very 1950s to me, but the designer has manipulated it quite brilliantly in flirty dresses and paired with knits, making the print modern and feminine.  I wish we could fast forward a few months and jump into these spring styles.

Many designers attempt to establish a theme without looking too contrived, but few succeed like Christopher Kane’s S/S 2010 collection.

Shop Christopher Kane’s current collection on LynkU.