2009 September | Fashion For Lunch

Archive for September, 2009

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30.09.2009 / no responses / Category: A/W 09 Runway
Big, bad boots

I’m stepping back into Autumn for the moment, because while I’m wishing every night for an early spring, I need to deal with the number one issue on my mind: what kind of shoes to buy this season. Presently, I’m obsessed with over-the-knee boots. To be honest, I wasn’t prepared to like this style of footwear at first. I mean they’re practically pants. A friend of mine in the States has been raving about her pair for the past year, and they did not sound appealing for the first 300 days I listened. I was imagining Julia Roberts strutting around downtown L.A., red tangles and short mini in tow. All it took was a visual aid in the shape of A/W 09 runways to change my tune.

I would wear these Stella McCartney boots every single day for the rest of my life. With anything and everything: leggings, skinny jeans, a mini or 3/4 length skirt for that matter, there are really no limits. They would look amazing peaking out of a cropped trench. Added plus, Ms. McCartney famously refuses to use animal skin in her designs, so this is truly guilt-free fashion at its best. Admittedly I would spend the first few days staring at my legs, tracing these divine patterns, before I fully owned them. Sad, I know. Moving on…

I adore this suede variation from Chloé by Hannah MacGibbon, especially the frilly lace-up heeled Bluebell boots. Because it wouldn’t be Autumn without a gorgeous suede boot, and Chloe happens to offer two beauties, it’s quite necessary to view both the flat riding- and evening out-options. Hannah MacGibbon has certainly set the bar high with her first collection for the French fashion house.

More on suede, but this time of the extravagant and rust orange variety, courtesy of Vivienne Westwood. Westwood reworks the high-reaching heels, hititng her stride in this firey number. I like how they’re fitted around the thigh, yet somewhat still slouchy lower down the leg. And to our right, we have Peter Pilotto, who takes an interesting direction with this heel-pant hybrid (that, and I had to point out this one shoulder orange-azure dress). Not quite a boot, and yet not exactly connected to your waist, but innovative nonetheless–sort of reminiscent of what Aminaka Wilmont was doing here. You can shop this dress and more pretty prints from Pilotto here.

This party-perfect boot from Guiseppe Zanotti is chic and fresh. Zanotti introduces rainbow detailing to the influx of studded footwear that swept Autumn runways with a brighter twist. Ideal for going out, these thigh-highs look like they would fit the leg perfectly–banning unintentional scrunch!

Shop more over-the-knee boots here.

30.09.2009 / no responses / Category: A/W 09 Runway
La dolce vita–mad fashion in Milan

Though I am not currently in Milano viewing the shows, or dining on fresh pasta and sampling the local red (I am officially hungry), I thought it wise to give you a taste of what’s going on in the land of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. I’ll start with the legendary design duo, who seated two bloggers front row at their show (the revolution is coming…), which puts them very high in my book at the moment, and their fashion sense doesn’t hurt. The SS 10 collection looks to have a heavy Latin influence, with lace and chince and fringe–and we’re just getting started. The designers’ runway standard of glamourous gowns was replaced with tailored suits and carefully constructed bodices for SS 10. The flying fringe looks like it would be a perfect fit for a flamenco dancer, and the mixed floral separates are to die for. Grandma’s sweater with pleated hot pants is fine by me. Dolce and Gabbana have an acute ability to progress a collection, adjusting dramatic details accordingly, and SS2010 is no different, though it looks to be a very dark Spring if their forecast is correct.

Shop Dolce & Gabbana’s current collection here.

Next up: Peter Dundas’ debut collection for Emilio Pucci. I adore prints as much as the next girl, and this Spring looks to be something spectacular at Pucci. Perfect for yacht-hopping from Capri to Cannes, Dundas’ collection works soft, flowing silhouettes and silk stained prints. A palette of soft peach, ivory, azure and turquoise fuse together flawlessly and would most likely look best with a sun-kissed tan. There were a few sharp-shouldered jacket variations in keeping with the current trend, but Dundas really hits his stride variating Pucci’s printed minis and kaftans. Am seriously considering checking out some Easy Jet deals after this.

Check out more Pucci.

Here we have a little Gucci, which opened its SS2010 collection in a parade of white– a trend across the Milan runways, blending into taupe and pale pastel hues. Gucci’s collection steered into ikat, picking up the colours in the print to translate into new looks effortlessly. The whole line had a delicate restrain, easing in and out of solids and prints seamlessly. The triple shot below is the best way I can illustrate the transition. A tad less literal than Christopher Kane’s gingham check progression, but you can still see where the designer had started and followed through with her vision.

Need more Gucci? Shop here.

29.09.2009 / no responses / Category: S/S 10 Runway
The beautiful and damned

Another post-fash week recap. Angel Jackson. It deserves the emphasis. Utterly amazing, lah-vley satchels and clutches–and until discussing these handbags with the helpful LFW team, I wasn’t exactly sure a satchel could be sexy. So wrong. Dead wrong, in fact because Angel Jackson’s “Damned and Dangerously Beautiful” collection out SS 2010 is exceptional. What I love best about this line is that it takes grown-up fashion (I’m talking snakeskin bags here), and makes it fresh and hot for a younger generation of shoppers.

Union Jack is a violent clash of violet, fuschia, fluro orange and turquoise. I wasn’t into the patriotic clutches that flooded shops this summer, but I would absolutely parade the flag on this bag. The sequin/ studded satchels (they truly are the perfect size bag) epitomize punk rock chic, while the dangling feather & chain ‘discos’ (Angel Jackson’s name, not mine, but loving it nonetheless) are brilliant. Modern and mad, the Mohawk bags are perfect for work and play, surprisingly. Everything is studded, coloured and bold, and I would gladly lug around my nightly equipment (read: lip gloss, Oyster card, debit and mobile) in any one of these options.

Wear these bags with any of the 80s ultra-luxe looks, studded separates and basically, well anything. Described as bourgeoise Parisian meet British irreverence, these bags are deliciously decadent. Sure gives Fitzgerald a run for his money.

Shop Angel Jackson’s AW 09 collection here.

28.09.2009 / 2 responses / Category: S/S 10 Runway
La Petite Salope, style with cheek

Since fashion week will ripple on for weeks after its finale, I feel that it’s perfectly acceptable to continue adding in little finds and favourites along the way. One presentation in particular completely distracted me from where I was headed last Monday. My brain was still a little sleepy as I attempted to juggle my Cannon, a notebook, and the rest of the contents in my bag whilst managing to sling my press pass around my neck on the way to Body Amr, when I caught a glimpse of a room packed with pretty dresses at the end of the hall.

La Petite Salope, or for us English speakers, The Little Strumpet, is a perfect pastiche of cotton, jersey and drapey silks (and I do adore all things draped). I walked around feeling my way through folds of fabric, which normally looks rather strange in public but actually seemed standard in this showroom, until I arrived at the very last rack, satisfied. The brainchild of designer Nicola Helgesen, La Petite S***** (it’s current branding) stocked some interesting qulited frocks, and a heavy dose of twisted, textured cotton which I loved–nothing simple or ordinary about this line. Fluid silk silhouettes looked luxurious and were regally draped–a new era in youthful sophistication.

From there, I checked out the A/W09 offering of La Petite S***** on LynkU and picked out the very best velvety, sparkly looks.

To shop, left to right: Star by Julien MacDonald clutch, Terry de Havilland Margaux shoe, Angel Jackson Sequin satchel, Jimmy Choo leopard print pumps, Bottega Veneta lilac satin clutch, and Fendi leather and suede shoe-boots.

28.09.2009 / no responses / Category: S/S 10 Runway
Christopher Bailey talks Burberry, chavs, checks and Tom Ford

Says it all, don’t it? I was lucky enough to get a ticket to The Sunday Times evening with Christopher Bailey, hosted by style writer, Colin McDowell. Squeezed into a dark, unbelievably crowded room in the bottom of Selfridges, we (myself and a throng of eager listeners–mostly female) sat listening to Colin and Christopher (we’re on a first name basis now, naturally) run through the designer’s humble start in Yorkshire to his gradual rise up fashion’s Mt. Olympus. I’m going to use chapters, well because it’s an organized approach, and also because last night felt sort of like story time with a super famous fashion designer. So here it goes.

Chapter I: “This is Christopher by the way…”

Far from the flashing lights and pounding music of Burberry Prorsum’s impressive fashion show days ago, last night’s discussion was casual and relaxed, and made me want to have Christopher Bailey as my best friend/ big brother/1st cousin…you get the point. Turns out, that though he had always had an interest in craft and achitecture, he never really saw himself in the world of designerwear. Things changed after Christopher started working in a wedding boutique, where he listened to what women really wanted in clothes.

Chapter II: Life in the Big Apple and beyond…

(This sounds supernatural, and I like it). Bailey first headed to the States to work for Donna Karan. “New York was everything I hoped it would be: tall buildings, steaming streets, and everyone walking around saying the F-word.” Yup, sounds about right. The fashion scene in NYC is a “slick operation,” and Bailey says it taught him how to develop a collection season after season.

On his departure to Gucci, the designer says Tom Ford “seduced” him into sharing his dream of rehabing the floundering Italian line. With Ford, every day was different, and Bailey was told he could live wherever he pleased, though he admits he spent most of his three years in hotels, following Ford from city to city.

Chapter III: “Here’s the question you don’t want to answer” (Can’t stop McDowell)

Most things in Chrisopher Bailey’s life have seemed to unfold organically, including his arrival at Burberry. Though he was initially wary of returning to England, he had a eureka moment, when he realized that Burberry was “like a beautiful diamond that had been forced into the ground, and just needed to be dusted off.” And then McDowell hit him with a zinger: explain how you overcame Burberry’s past reputation of er, chavs and checks, and well, uhm, how do you cope? Apparently no dramatic boardroom meltdown here, Bailey says he just stuck to his vision and the line’s heritage. And there you have it.

For the fashiony details: Bailey doesn’t do themes, he starts each collection with a certain attitude in mind and builds up the colour palette, adding fabric to the mix. He said the key is to remain “sensitive to the moment you’re living in.”

After the Q&A, I skipped the “invitation” to shop the AW09 collection on 4, and went to view the new spring stuff again, naturally. Here are some faves just for you (and a little for me):

25.09.2009 / 2 responses / Category: Fashion Newsroom
Temperley London sample sale

Yes, I realise this is short notice (my apologies), but LynkU has posted Temperley London’s latest sample sale, which is on today and tomorrow. Unfortunately, we missed Alice Temperley’s SS 2010 presentation this year, she debuted her circus of style across the pond. Don’t hang your head too long, because we get to rifle through the line’s ready-to-wear, accessories, knitwear, and vintage samples for two days only. Label-lovers put on your best trainers and pack cash, prices are slashed starting at 60% off. Now for the important details:

The sale is being held at the 20th Century Theatre, 291 Westbourne Grove until 7 tonight, and 6:30 tomorrow night. For a map and more info click here.

24.09.2009 / no responses / Category: Sample Sales
Let them eat Cake

I came across the be-a-utiful work of Marit Fujiwara while prowling the blogosphere, and though she has been covered by everyone under the sun ( first saw her mentioned on Susie naturally) , her designs are just amazing and her talent too immense not to comment. This gem is aptly titled ‘Cake,’ and really, what could be better than combining my absolute favourite dessert (cake every day of the week? Please) with fashion? And so I give to you these inspired works by Marit, a textile designer who recently graduated from the Chelsea College of Art and Design. Here’s a little more bio to satistfy your interest: Marit was born in Norway and raised in Brazil before moving to London at 19. She draws inspiration from her international experiences and bases her work chiefly on drawings and illustrations.

Certainly reminiscent of my fashion-passion, Rodarte, Marit Fujiwara’s ability to play and work fabric into delicate folds and waves is astonishing. Similar to the Mulleavy sisters, who construct ornate 3-d curls of fabric, Marit is a sartorial dream. Her creations are innovative and incredibly interesting (I could possibly spend hours dissecting this endless textile sea). If she were a 19th century Impressionist, she would surely be Van Gogh, translating Cake and the like into swirls of Starry Night on canvas. If this is a glimpse into the future of young designers, I can hardly wait.

A close-up look at rose and coral snaking around the gray and rouge fabric.

Etheral and innovative, ‘Skeleton’ is a lacy frame with chiffon over embroidered shell pseudo-leggings.

Take a closer look into the fashion anatomy of the fabric artfully weaving multi-coloured thread and fabric through the ’skeletal’ system.

23.09.2009 / 2 responses / Category: Fresh Faces
Graduated design

Christopher Kane’s much anticipated runway show at London Fashion Week displayed the Scottish designer’s acute ability to develop his vision into a cohesive collection. Packed with gingham check, floaty chiffon and luxurious cashmere, Kane’s line transitioned effortlessly.

The show opened with a tailored vest over a hazelnut-coloured checked dress with slits creeping up the leg, and it’s here the Central Saint Martins alum establishes the tone: one part school girl sweet mixed with a rebellious edge. Kane relentlessly pushes the boundary between innocence and subtle seduction, with clever thigh-high slits and exposed balconets verging on disturbing.

He progresses from menswear-inspired pieces to structured separates to chiffon babydoll dresses flawlessly, alternating between pale blue, petal pink and sunny yellow. Weaving gingham throughout the collection, Kane graduates from checks to floral embroidery seemlessly.

I absolutely love how Kane builds a collection, adding only necessary pieces to enhance the completed line. The gingham feels very 1950s to me, but the designer has manipulated it quite brilliantly in flirty dresses and paired with knits, making the print modern and feminine. I wish we could fast forward a few months and jump into these spring styles.

Many designers attempt to establish a theme without looking too contrived, but few succeed like Christopher Kane’s S/S 2010 collection.

Shop Christopher Kane’s current collection on LynkU.

23.09.2009 / no responses / Category: S/S 10 Runway
Street Chic at fashion week

This post is several days in the making, as I met Sabina on Saturday in the midst of a trillion shows, and naturally lost her bsuiness card until today when I decided to start sorting through my LFW collection of paperwork. So here you go, this is street style at its best. Sure you have designer shows, but the attendees also come suited in their fashion week best– dressed in provocative, fun and inspiring clothes and getting snapped by nearly as many photogs as the models!

Sabina works as a stylist (wow, completely surprising right) and her leggings are ridiculous. Truly amazing, I did a double-take coming out of Somerset. To be fair, Saturday was a shiny, sunny, gorgeous, perfect day (you get the point) and my eyes were adjusting. On first glance, I thought these beauties were a variety of over-the-knee boots–an interesting texture regardless. However, when I turned around again, I realized Sabina’s heeled sandals were not attached to her brilliant leg-wear. She said that they had been causing quite a stir that morning, and a valuable lesson is gleaned: if you dress your best, you will get noticed.

22.09.2009 / no responses / Category: Sample Sales