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Party pretty
This season’s sixties flavour is perfectly in-line with Giambattista Valli’s style aesthetic. His is a collection filled with impossibly chic and decidedly feminine cocktail-appropriate pieces to make us swoon. Yes, there’s day options a plenty, but these too feel as if they have bit more glamour than what usually meets the sun. As the line opened, Valli was rifting on outerwear, and introduced his take on the beige coat that looks sure to become a staple piece this autumn. Valli’s cocoons, whether long or cropped, have a structured feel as if to protect the wearer.
Sweet chiffon frocks mingled with long ivory coats and seperates made of bunches of camel-coloured ruffles that exploded from bodice and skirt. Sheer black panels looked a bit risqué sewn onto the bottom of knits or atop fluttery skirts exposing sexy undergarments (guess underwear as outerwear is here to stay). Moving into evening wear, Valli picked up the hem from spring’s drop-waist silhouette, and added embellishments. These punchy mini frocks would look perfect on a sophisticated sixties glamazon with Martini in hand. Valli then pulled pleats of black and nude silk across one another ending at the thigh or snaking down the legs erupting into ripples. Despite troubled economic conditions, Valli has managed to stay afloat with a lovely autumn showing that is sure to delight his ever faithful Valli girls.
Written by Dana Karlson
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Winter wonderland
Judging by Chanel’s forecast, winter 2010 looks to be a blizzard of style. Not to worry though, Karl Lagerfeld will have us kitted out in smart tweed nonetheless. This season the line’s classic tweed suits had fur interwoven throughout and trimmed along the hemlines to keep us bundled. And for the legs? Choose between shaggy trousers or boots (knee length or ankle) with tights. Well at least we’ll be snowed under in style.
Tweed was laced with brown and black yarn or navy and red and paired indiscriminately with fur skirts or shorts. Figure-fitting cropped leather jackets had pockets made of Chanel’s quilting, whilst sumptuous tweed dresses were decorated with glacial necklaces. Belts and bags looked like they had just been plucked from the loom, carrying over Lagerfeld’s crafty details from spring.
There was a section of black, white and grey suiting that utilised sheer panels, 3D knit ‘bumpers’ along the neckline and yarn tassels to add a new dimension to the collection. In solid black pieces, Lagerfeld experimented with texture, pairing silky metallic shimmer with knitwear. Transitioning into winter white, the pieces that closed the show looked as soft as snowflakes. Chanel’s collection was chic and cosy, and predicted a delightfully bundled winter to come.
Tweed and fur suiting take Chanel to another–warmer–level for winter. We adore this lipstick red dress with fur trim and yarn sash just about as much as we need to own this striped ivory dress that cascades into tiers of yarn.
Close up to see the quilted pockets and interlocking tweed.
Brilliant shards of icy metal cover the model’s neck.Written by Dana Karlson
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Saddle up
Picking up right where he left off with Christian Dior’s couture collection, John Galliano’s gallant equestrians were back in the saddle. Lucky for us, we love this style of riding boots, one-button blazers and high-waisted trousers. This time around, the cast of an Old Western was born with just a touch of European sophistication. This wasn’t just any ole Western– this was Dior’s world. We met the bar master dressed to kill–or break up any bar room brawls–in a shiny leather bodice that filled out into tiers of pleats standing in tie-up lace boots. Models dressed in gingham check jackets buttoned over waistcoats with trousers tucked into their knee-high boots were accessorised with over-sized leather bags or top hats. Long leather macs cloaked floaty negligees beneath. Sleek and sophisticated, Galliano’s tailored layers make us crave the days of formal dressing.
Now introducing the damsels in distress. Galliano unveiled delicate chiffon dresses in pale green, blue, lavender and ivory, and layered with cropped coats trimmed with fur or worn over fierce boots to remind us that though dainty, the girls surely weren’t demure. Pieces of knitwear enhanced the collection, making it feel more approachable. Though this wasn’t as streamlined as other lines we’ve seen this fashion month, Galliano’s craftsmanship and tailoring produced some exceptional separates that would spice up any winter wardrobe.
Written by Dana Karlson
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Très Sonia
There are certain designers who aim to come up with something new and unexpected every season – and others that simply stick to what they do best. Although Sonia Rykiel may fall into the latter category, it’s not always a bad thing. In fact, precisely because we know what to expect, we can’t help but like this label for its fun stripes and cheery knitwear.
The show started off with an oversized grey suit. Serious? The suit had a laid-back, almost pyjama-like quality, and with the model’s cheeky look and giant pom pom headband, it was anything but. The suit was followed by various cardigans with big knitted sleeves, funky coats, long skirts and light tights worn with chunky platforms. The label’s iconic safety pin brooch was seen in all its glory securing many of the pieces. The nude colours slowly transformed into darker shades of grey, outbursts of red and various shades of blue. And, naturally, Rykiel’s signature stripes made their usual appearance on jumpers with zipped sleeves and trousers.
This was undeniably classic Sonia, but there was plenty of variety – some of the looks were unashamedly girlie and playful, but there were many elegant, lady-like pieces, like Swallow printed tops, decidedly modern fur coats, pieces embellished with pearls and silk shorts.
The show ended with all the models walking down the runway – and having a blast – in ostrich-feather tops, dresses and coats. Not a surprising ending considering the label is all about fun. It may be plagued by predictability, but there is one thing that no one can deny Rykiel has: charm.
Shop for current Sonia Rykiel products on LynkU.
Written by Vanessa Zaree
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Autumn allure
We’re quite smitten with Alber Elbaz, the man behind French fashion house Lanvin. The Lanvin woman is effortlessly glamorous and undeniably chic–grace permeates her every step. So credit is due to the man who suits her day in and day out in luxurious, often draped, loveliness. For autumn, Elbaz has whipped up deliciously structured silhouettes, using jagged rocks of embellishments to remind us that though powerful and very much in control, his woman is still sensual and majestic.
The most notable characteristic of this collection was the exaggerated shoulders and sleeves, which encased the models like cocoons. Unlike the extreme peaks of autumn 09, this season’s wide arms projected a broader, more dominating figure—but perhaps the blunt cut ebony fringe and Cleopatra locks helped, too. Elbaz’s winter woman meant business, whether she was suited in a carefully draped blazer, or a one-shoulder frock with fitted panels. We sensed a subtle rebellious streak formulating in pleated black silk wrapped diagonally across the body, which was paired with studded belts and leather cuffs.
And then things got a little lovelier, more flavoured and a bit softer with the addition of super fine, supremely delicate brown lace. Rolling into gentle folds, web-like lace was tucked into high-waisted skirts and accessorised with intricate belts and multi-stranded feather necklaces. Petal coloured ostrich feathers piled into ruffles on a mini dress and sprouted out of a handbag. Transitioning back to a darker palette, Elbaz then introduced swaths of graphite and copper embellished with clusters of metallic jewels that patterned themselves into intricate designs. Styled with ankle boots that cut seductively down the arch of the foot, a delectable bag and a leather glove, Elbaz’s girls looked commanding yet inviting. And one thing’s for certain, Lanvin’s allure is sure to attract many followers this autumn.
Written by Dana Karlson
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Black, white and red
There’s something rather enchanting about bright red lips and a monochrome outfit – and from the moment we saw the first look of Givenchy’s autumn/winter ‘10 collection, we knew it would be a good show.
Givenchy’s creative director Riccardo Tisci said he was inspired by skiing, scuba-diving and the signature colours of German arts school Bauhaus. At first glance, it would be pretty much impossible to see these references, but look closer and one can see subtle snowflake patterns printed on tops, skirts with a utilitarian zip detail and the look-alike neoprene fabrics, all in a palette of red, black and white. However, it was far from luxe sportswear – the 49 looks couldn’t have been chicer.
The luxurious, menswear-inspired coats were some of the highlights of the show, as well as the risqué lace dresses and sheer tops.
As well as outerwear, Tisci focused mainly on evening dresses, creating decadently sensual numbers. There were exquisitely cut blazers and coats, velvet dresses and lace detailing. The label’s must-have lace-up ankle boots have new façades for winter, one of them being in the form of a bright red model, whilst embellished gloves and clutches added that extra sparkle.
The men’s looks had a more laid-back feel but looked just as striking. Elegant coats, crisp white jackets, straight black trousers and men’s skirts were the key male pieces.
Because of the dim lights on the runway and those haunting red lips, there was inevitably a Gothic mood throughout the show. But who can resist such a powerful colour trio?
Written by Vanessa Zaree
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Phoebe’s Way
It may only be her second big collection for Celine, but Phoebe Philo is causing a stir in the fashion world. It’s not surprising – by having to balance a successful career in fashion with her family life, Philo understands a modern-day woman’s needs. Celine’s Spring ‘10 collection was full of covetable pieces that make perfect wardrobe staples, and its Winter ‘10 collection has followed the same lines.
The show started off with models walking down the runway in minimal, slightly military-looking navy pieces. No extra fuss needed – the coats and dresses were statement pieces, which will most likely be the sell-out garments of next season. Philo returned to Celine’s star piece for Spring: the leather skirt. Firstly, as a pencil version it was paired up with a sexy lace top, and then in a less structured, more tulip-like shape with an oversize white shirt. In fact, leather was one of the main fabrics of the show – there were skin-tight leather tops -sensual yet chic-, and an imposing long, black leather coat. But leather played a key part in the details: we saw it on sleeves and hemlines, the leather riding boots were a perfect complement to the clothes and the most charming touch was probably the big leather pockets on many of the items.
The palette of colours used was straight to the point: black, white, navy and earthy tones enhanced the clothes’ sophisticated feel. Trends that have been a catwalk constant for the last few seasons like lace, sheer and embellishments were included, and there was some knitwear as well in the form of chunky sweater dresses. But what stood out above all were the clean-cut separates and luxe coats with a timeless appeal.
There was a definite ‘Buy now, wear for ever’ philosophy behind the collection – pieces for women who know what they want. There’s nothing more powerful than a confident woman – and Phoebe knows just how to reflect that.
Written by Vanessa Zaree
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Academy Award winning style 2010
The 82nd annual Academy Awards dazzled Hollywood Sunday night, as screen sirens turned up the heat on the red carpet. Runway-ready looks reigned in a season that was dominated by couture ruffles. The evening was kicked off with familiar shouts of ‘Who are you wearing?,’ and of course, we were all ears. Here are a few of our favourite Oscar looks. Notable mention goes to Diane Kruger (always a favourite) who looked lovely in a tiered Chanel dress, Rachel McAdams who glowed in a pretty pastel gown by Elie Saab, and Miley Cyrus in Jenny Packham. Yes, we deliberated about even typing that last name, but the young singer/actress stepped up her style by toning down her dress selection (remember last year’s controversial overly embellished number?!). Packham’s champagne-coloured frock fitted Miley perfectly– truly a step in the right direction.
Cameron Diaz looked gorgoeus in Oscar de la Renta (right) during the show and after at the Vanity Fair party (left). We love how both looks featured metallic shimmer– and bold red lips didn’t hurt either.
Zoe Saldana was stunning in a Givenchy couture confection. The Avatar actress stole the show in a sparkly bodice atop waves of violet ruffles.
British beauty Carey Mulligan held her in a LBD by Prada. Mulligan was effortlessly chic as usual in this incredibly embellished frock.
Sandra Bullock, we have to hand it to her. Not generally known for her fashion sense, Bullock looked every bit the Academy Award-winning actress that she now is (thanks to The Blind Side) in a gilded Marchesa gown. Bravo!Written by Dana Karlson
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Future Odyssey
….Shall we proceed? A few more minutes, perhaps? Sure. Take all the time you need to soak up that gem. What a close-up. What a shoe. Part reptilian brogue, part plastic. If this brilliant piece of footwear makes sense to you or intrigues you, we have a feeling you’re going to enjoy Balenciaga’s projection for autumn.
The magic produced by designer Nicholas Ghesquiere is astounding. We spent days counting down until we able to sort through Ghesquiere’s infinite talent–four more days, three more days…–and this collection did not disappoint. Balenciaga benefits from having one of the most unique current perspectives at it’s helm, and autumn looks to be a lot more interesting with Ghesquiere in the ring.
Many designers have sourced inspiration from sixties style this season. Ghesquiere too headed back in time several decades, but he restored blocks of formica, plastic packaging and day-glow colours into an ultra modern display of fashion. With models walking among the solar system in perfectly constructed heels, skinny cropped trousers and super high hemlines, Ghesquiere’s line might not have been the most wear-able but we’d certainly say it’s the most interesting. Knitwear connotes something entirely different than what we saw in this collection, where the designer took soft fabric and created a stiff silhouette. Laser-perforated skirts resembled the most delicate lace, whilst the blend of powder blue and electric yellow, peach and sea green set against grey created a brighter vision of autumn.
Season after season, Ghesquiere seems to tune out the trends and turn on the fashion-faithful with brilliant innovations.
Written by Dana Karlson
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A designer cause
Every so often a movement is born, a sentiment that ignites a flame of passion, demanding action and eliciting a response. Women for Women International is just that crusade. Reaching out to females in conflict-ridden countries including Rwanda, Sudan, Afghanistan and Iraq to name a few, the charity aims to empower these victims of war and civil crises by helping them find the resources needed to create stability in their lives and communities. This month Women for Women has teamed up with Harper’s Bazaar and London’s favourite female designers to create an exclusive range of T-shirts in honour of International Woman’s Day on 8 March.
Monday marks the centennial celebration of the global event, and fetes in the UK commence mid-day with the Join Me On The Bridge initiative. Women across the world will unite on bridges on 8 March, symbolising a future built on peace, support and development. And while you’re at it, pick up a designer t-shirt by the likes of Nicole Farhi, Savannah Miller, Bella Freud or Alice Temperley made specially for the day sold on Net-A-Porter. Our pick is the “Goddess of War” slogan tee by Pam Hogg, or Betty Jackson’s gorgeous mask design. Proceeds will be donated to Women for Women International.
The festivities continue well into the evening at the Haunch of Venison gallery. Get glammed up in your finest for a soiree that features music, international dance troupes and an incredible auction. The charity will raffle off chances to win prizes that would otherwise not be up for purchase such as a fashion experience with Mrs. B herself Joan Burnstein during London Fashion Week in September, internships at M&C Saatchi and Harper’s Bazaar, tea at the House of Lords and even an opportunity to release a cheetah into the wild. You could also pick up a pair of Jimmy Choo’s and some brilliant jewels if you like. Tickets are £125, to purchase call Women for Women at 0207 922 7774 to book ahead. Tickets are also available at the door. For more information click here.
Founded by Zainab Salbi, a well-known author in the US who grew up imprisoned by her family’s position in Saddam Hussein’s inner circle, Women for Women connects sponsors to women around the world, fostering a nurturing relationship between females that engenders courage and confidence. So why the focus on women you ask? Well amidst sobering statistics highlighting the imbalance between women’s work efforts (they make up 66 percent of the work force and produce 50 percent of food yet they earn just 10 percent of the income and 1 percent of property), they also represent 70 percent of the world’s poor. Shocking and sad. Initiative and action is required. So whether you sport a shirt or gather at the bridge, supporting International Women’s Day feels like a step in the right direction.
Written by Dana Karlson
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- A designer cause
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